On June 3rd, we pack all of our belongings and head to Iliamna River Lodge to help them open and launch their first week of guiding. I step off the float plane and immediately fall in love with the place - set right on the Iliamna River, the lodge and cabins are bright and welcoming, and the newly-built hot tub overlooking the river looks like a dream for my very sore muscles. But soon after I set my bags down in my temporary room, the guides are called to our first duty. A fuel run.
We load up the empty fuel barrels into our jet boats and caravan downriver and around the lake to the fueling station. Bryson, the head guide at IRL in his seventh season in Alaska, leads the way in a larger, enclosed jet boat...and me, John, and Logan (a new guide at IRL, but with years of experience guiding in Wyoming and Montana under his belt) follow closely behind. Back at the lodge, we pump the fuel from our barrels into the larger fuel tanks. During this process, I stumble in the jet boat, fall down, and slam my rib into the gunnel. It hurts bad, but I try walk it off...fooling absolutely no one.
Once our fuel errand is complete, we are tasked with running up the river to scope things out. On this mission I meet Happy, in his third season at the lodge, and with a personality to match his name. We're looking for fish and assessing any changes in the river from the past season. Oh, there's a fallen tree blocking the river? No problem. We brought a chainsaw and get to work to reopen the access the point. On our way back to the lodge, I see my first brown bear.
"Yep, I'm definitely in Alaska."
The next few days consist of more lodge-readiness chores and my first lessons in Alaska rowing. "So what does Alaska rowing training entail exactly?" Well, for me, it meant John and Happy running me far upriver, showing me how to set up a raft, giving me some pointers and techniques, and leaving with a "see ya back at the lodge in a few hours." Then I'm left by myself, a raft, a satellite phone, and the hope to make it back by dinnertime (I don't make it for dinner, but they've left me a plate). The solitude is amazing. And I have Alaska to myself.
The day guests arrive, the staff meets early and divvies out final responsibilities. I pull weeds from the gravel pathways and try to find other ways to be useful. But then the septic tank starts overflowing and the guides huddle up to quickly problem-solve, dry heaving from the sights and smells in the process. Emergency resolved. We are ready for guests.
On the first day of fishing, I'm thankful for not having a hangover despite the large craft IPA generously given to me by Happy the night prior. Although I am staying back to help with maintenance, I'm told to wader up, help load the float planes, and see the guides and guests off. It is pure joy to see the excitement of the staff and guests as they head out on the first day.
Once they all take off, me, Schuyler (another IRL guide in his second season in Alaska), and a couple kids helping with maintenance jump in jet boats with chainsaws to cut down and bring back wood for the lodge. "Umm....you want me to use a chainsaw?" Schuyler shows me the ropes and I use a chainsaw for the first time, blocking one of the spruce trees we've cut down, and scared the whole time I'm going to chop my own leg off. The next day, I'm held back from guiding again, and instead put my work clothes on and sand walls in one of the lodge's new additions. I start looking forward to end-of-day hangout time with the guide crew. And I wonder if I've bruised a rib from the fall in the jet boat. Everything in my body is hurting.
Finally, on June 8th, I'm sent out with guests for the first time. I shadow Happy on his rafting trip, taking as many mental notes as I can remember. I'm full of nerves as I take over the oars for a bit. But I survive. By the next day, I'm given even more responsibility with clients and get to actually put them on fish. Despite it being early season, we connect to some gorgeous, big rainbow trout and even a few lake trout. The guides continue to encourage me and I feel excited to finally have input into our afternoon roundup back at the lodge.
A couple days later, and with just fifteen minutes notice, I'm told to pack everything back up and get on a float plane to head back to The Ridge. Things move quickly here, and guide schedules are determined by float plane schedules. So, before I feel ready, I say goodbye to my friends at IRL. I'm sad to be leaving such a great community, but am excited to officially start my own season back at The Ridge.
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